Dos Fridas. Muy awesome.Today I went to an art museum for the first time in my life. Yes, for the first time. In thirty years. Shut up.
But first, a couple of errands. Barbara and I arrived in San Francisco around 1:00, and after an interminable wait at the baggage claim carousel from HELL (it didn't move for 15 minutes, then circled the same three bags for another 15, and the entire time someone around us was flatulating madly), we set out for the Mission, land of burritos the size of Shetland ponies and pastries made with little more than lard, sugar and the tears of the Holy Virgin Mother herself.
Deftly sidestepping the crazy guy peeing in the middle of the busy sidewalk in broad daylight (it felt just like being right back under the Burnside Bridge in Old Town!) and resisting the lure of such window shopping temptations as stuffed armadillos and Colon Cleanse, we were in and out of the Mission lickety-split...all so that we could get to the San Francisco Museum of Modern Art in time for Frida.
SFMOMA is showing an incredible exhibition of original Frida Kahlo works through September, and I was lucky enough to get to experience it today. What a bitchin' show.
Our timed entry wasn't until 5:30, so we wandered through the rest of the museum first, taking in amazing works by Matisse, Magritte, Rothko, Lichtenstein, Picasso, Warhol, Rivera, Dali, Chagall, and more. There was an awesome exhibition of Lee Miller's work, both as a model and as a photographer and WWII photojournalist.
"The Flower Carrier," Diego Rivera
One of my all-time favorite paintings, "The Flower Carrier" by Diego Rivera, was absolutely breathtaking to see in person -- the colors were so rich and the strokes so perfectly textured (do I sound like I know about art? because I totally don't); I could've stood there and stared at it all day.
Instead, I took photo after photo with my shitty camera phone and spammed James.
But the real treat was the Kahlo exhibit, which was HUGE and RAD. It's so incredible to see famous artwork in person -- sort of like meeting a celebrity. More than once I found myself thinking, "I can't believe I'm inches away from something that Frida Kahlo actually touched, actually made." I know it's ridiculous, but it's pretty surreal to know you're sharing breathing space with the very object that an artist shared breathing space with.
Anyway, it was fascinating to read her history and information on her paintings as we walked through the exhibit, and it was interesting to see how her painting actually improved, visibly, over the years. There was also an extensive collection of photographs of her and Rivera. And Rivera? What a bug-eyed, toady-lookin', homely sonofabitch he was. Incredible artist, no doubt, but not so cute. Strangely, her paintings of him were some of her best, in my opinion -- the detail was so fine, like she was so in love with him that she had memorized every hair on his head and saggy pocket of fat on his face.
I didn't take this picture. The NYTimes did.
After finishing the museum, we headed to the hotel to rest our feet a while, then headed back out to see the City Lights Bookstore (where the Beat poets like Ginsberg and Kerouac used to hang out), which was so cool (again, the whole "breathing where a famous person breathed" thing). Next door to that was Vesuvio's, an old bar that had painted above its doorway, oddly enough, "We were itchin' to get away from Portland, Oregon!" The bouncer explained that the original owners moved the bar to San Francisco from Portland during the "1906 flea infestation" that was apparently plaguing the waterfront. Something to do with sewage management issues. Given that the Willamette overflows with raw sewage every time it rains for more than three minutes, I totally buy this story.
Then, DINNER. We ate at E Tutto Qua just across the street, and let me tell you, this was real Italian food and REAL ITALIAN PEOPLE. You know an Italian restaurant's good when half of the patrons are actual Italians, speaking Italian, dressed in salmon-colored sweaters like only Italian men can wear. I had the gnocchi al zaffareno (gnocchi with saffron, zucchini, clams and tomatoes), a perfectly smooth glass of Ripasso Valpolicella, and for dessert, hazelnut and chocolate gelato.
HEAVEN, dear readers. And our waiter was so disarmingly charming and handsome and deliciously Italian, I nearly licked him at one point. Which I'm sure he's used to.
At any rate, I should have some pretty sweet dreams tonight after a day like today, all monobrows and Allen Ginsberg and clamshells...